I didn't make it as far as the Hill of Crosses, but I did get to walk along the wooden pier at Palanga, the Blackpool of the Baltic. Lapping against the narrow, white-sand beach, the sea was as calm as a garden pond.
From Palanga we drove south to Kaunas, where the sun finally came out. Church spires, apartment blocks and painted smoke stacks tumbled from the hillsides above the river. There were market stalls outside crowded church doorways and coloured easter eggs hanging from branches in the Old Town's main square.