Somewhere along the road the rain turned to snow. In Tallinn it was turning back. The sky was as grey as the cobbles in the Old Town's empty streets. Despite the strip clubs - outnumbered only by Irish pubs and souvenir shops - it felt much more genteel than Riga. Hilly and winding, the Old Town has a dreamy, fairytale beauty - the kind of place you could imagine being transported brick-by-brick to a Japanese theme park.
But then where would the Finns go to buy cheep beer?