Cospicua and Senglea

Cospicua isn't the most conspicuous of places today (the name derives from its, erm, conspicuously visible location outside the main fortifications of Senglea and Birgu), but St Helen's Gate gives you a half-decent view of what's left of the town. Clamber up some steps and you can walk along the walls above, locals having done their bit to retain an authentic air of danger by liberally sprinkling the place with broken glass and dog shit (note to whoever tied the fierce-looking, Shetland-pony sized dog to their front door: you've taken things a little too far). The outer gate, Poiverista, now doubles as a house and garage space.

Other than the rebuilt Our Lady of Victories Church, the best thing to see in Senglea is Vittorosia, across a channel dotted on this side with innumerable small fishing boats (washed on the dock by the locals after they've finished sponging down their cars). You could easily stand and take a hundred different pictures - I know, I tried - and still not exhaust the views on a sunny day. The best of all is from L'Isla Point, at the very tip of the peninsula, from where the capital extends from dockyard cranes to sea walls - although if you're as unlucky as me you'll have to share this potentially glorious moment with a tour bus full of people and their loudmouthed guide. Take the steps up behind the triangular five-a-side pitch (bit of a handicap for any side with two wingers) through Sally Port Gate, where you'll find a tiny park cut out of the battlements, and hopefully not an elderly German in tight white jeans and a ponytail talking on his mobile phone.