The stadium was less than a quarter full for the opening game of the FIFA Club World Cup. We sat in the cheapest seats, behind the goal, open to the sky. To the left, the Olympic flame was dwarfed by a FIFA logo. On the other side, past a tiny group of flag-waving Adelaide fans, the lights were still on in the skyscrapers of Shinjuku. The Japanese, generous to a fault, politely cheered for both teams at once, screaming at each near miss. An hour and a half later I was sitting on the nightbus, heading to Kyoto.