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My real summer holiday is an eight day trip across central Europe, visiting old haunts and big cities. I'm busy checking train timetables, from Prague direct to Bratislava, on to Warsaw for the weekend, then a slow loop back through the Czech Republic, calling in on Olomouc, Pardubice and, finally, Liberec. My route is updated as often as a station arrivals board, to fit the plans of friends and the vagaries of time and branch lines. Only the transit points stay the same: Katowice, Ostrava and Sosnowiec - grim borderland halts built on steel, coal and football teams.